These are the stories making headlines in fashion on Friday.
Virgil Abloh called out for “copied” Louis Vuitton and Off-White designs
Virgil Abloh has been accused of copying the work of other designers in both his Fall 2019 Louis Vuitton and Off-White collections. Michelle Elie, a well-known fixture in the global fashion community, called out Abloh for showing a graffitied yellow jacket and a helmet in his Off-White presentation that looked strikingly similar to pieces her son designed for ARISE Fashion Week in Nigeria last year. In addition, fans of Pyer Moss stormed social media to point out that one of Abloh’s Vuitton looks, which contained a flag-inspired scarf, was a near replica of an ensemble that Kerby Jean-Raymond showed in his Fall 2018 collection. {Hypebae}
Why Rihanna’s LVMH deal matters
LVMH is in the midst of a deal to back Rihanna’s fashion brand, which would make her the first female designer of color at the largest luxury conglomerate in the world. The details of the agreement remain scarce, but the move does mark a significant turning point in both fashion and fame: “The combination of Fenty and LVMH will be the clearest expression yet of how celebrity, social media and influencers have redefined the power balance between culture and consumption, changing the way brands of all kinds relate to their audience,” writes Vanessa Friedman for The New York Times. “Now that the elite fashion world is in disarray, splintered by the rise of the street, direct communication and a growing awareness of its lack of diversity, there is little wonder that LVMH would see in Rihanna a potential way forward.” {The New York Times}
Balmain launched an app
Olivier Rousteing has launched a Balmain app to bring his gilded army to the masses. The app, available on iTunes starting Friday, features augmented reality content that can be accessed by scanning posters that have been fly-posted around Paris since last night and will live stream the label’s couture show on Jan. 23. It will also feature an immersive tour of the label’s Saint Honoré flagship and daily behind-the-scenes content. {WWD}
Gabriela Hearst is dressing women who want to change the world
In a new profile for The Washington Post, Robin Givhan explores how Gabriela Hearst uses fashion as a language of political engagement. “From the beginning, Hearst assumed that her clothes were not likely to appeal to the typical starlet or influencer looking to cause a social media stir,” Givhan writes. “Her designs aren’t flashy. Hearst was more attuned to a boardroom badass, a contemporary Georgia O’Keefe, a loudmouthed activist — and her mother.” {The Washington Post}
Korea’s biggest beauty firm is in trouble
With sales of $5.6 billion, Amorepacific is Korea’s biggest beauty firm and the seventh-largest cosmetics maker in the world, surpassing beauty sales of Chanel and LVMH in 2017. But it’s had a rough few quarters due to lingering diplomatic tensions with China and the loss of a patent battle for one of its most successful innovations, the cushion compact. The cosmetics firm has also faced intense competition at home, where emerging rivals like Stylenanda and large conglomerates like LG Household & Health Care offer cosmetics and skin-care products at competitive prices. Now, some are questioning whether the K-Beauty will be able to recover. {Business of Fashion}
Source: Fashionista