A Guide to Cocktailing Active Ingredients, According to Your Skin Type

With brands like The Ordinary democratizing beauty and allowing us to buy the individual ingredients our complexions need at an affordable price, we should all be living our best skin lives. The reality is, though, the endless choices and number of individual ingredients sold can make shopping for skincare more confusing than ever before. But, if you can identify exactly what ingredients your skin needs and understand how to factor them into your daily routine, then clearer, more glowing skin is possible. It’s all about figuring out the how, which is where we come in.

To wade through the marketing speak and beauty hyperbole, I called on the following experts to shed some light on the confusing world of skincare ingredients: Dr. Marnie Nussbaum, who runs a private practice in New York; Renée Rouleau, celebrity esthetician; Megan Felton and Ksenia Selivanova, co-founders of skincare consultancy Lion/ne and Mark Curry, founder of The Inkey List, a Brit brand selling the most-wanted skin ingredients at a fraction of the price (launching in the U.S. this spring). Below, find the ideal cocktail of ingredients for your skin type or concern.

Pro tip: Seriously dry skin? “Cocktail polyglutamic acid with squalane in the day to seal in moisture before applying makeup,” says Curry.

On the nights when you’re not using retinol, apply your morning hydrating serum that contains hyaluronic acid and layer a moisturizer on top to lock in that moisture.

Acne-prone skin can become dehydrated so look to a serum with hyaluronic acid and finish with a light moisturiser. “Rosehip oil can also help acne-prone skins by boosting cell regeneration. Keep in mind that each skin is different and that acne can be triggered by so many different things; therefore an oil might work for one person and might make others condition worse,” warns the co-founders of Lion/ne.

Pro tip: Just because products say they’re for sensitive skin does not mean that this is the case. Check the ingredients on the back and avoid alcohols, fragrances and essential oils.

Pro Tip: If your skin is always red and blood vessels are dilated, you may have rosacea. The specific cause of this skin condition is still not known, but it is more common in light skin types and is triggered by sun exposure, spicy food, alcohol, changes in temperature, and harsh skincare (i.e. soap cleansers, fragrance, essential oils, drying alcohols). The duo warn that it’s important to know your triggers and try to avoid these to calm down redness. Click here to learn about the Rosacea diet.

If you’re using lots of active ingredients, keep your moisturizer simple; use one with peptides to strengthen the skin barrier function. "If your morning routine is very simple and you’re not currently using any retinol or pigmentation treatment, you could include a product with niacinamide or azelaic acid, which can reduce inflammation and pigmentation, especially on acne-prone skin, as your nighttime moisturizer,” adds the Lion/ne co-founders. Salicylic acid is known for its acne-fighting abilities it also helps after the spot has gone. Rouleau says, "since salicylic acid is an exfoliant, it will break down scarred cells leftover from blemish marks and will help PIH (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) go away faster."

Pro Tip: The Lion/ne team say that hyperpigmentation can be related to hormonal imbalances, the contraceptive pill, medication, stress, and UV damage. It can also come post-procedure, such as after lasers, derma-rolling or injections. "This is why it is better to try to find the root of the problem before using any anti-pigmentation treatment," they say. "However, you can add some ingredients in your skincare routine that will boost the cellular regeneration and therefore improve skin tone."

Pro tip: Curry recommends layering a Q10 serum with vitamin c for an added boost of antioxidant protection.

At night, it is important to feed the skin with nourishing and emollient ingredients. The best ingredients to look to are ceramides and peptides." Here’s why: Ceramides actually make up over 50% of your skin’s composition. They are essential to keep your barrier function healthy and prevent any loss of water or oil. Peptides, on the other hand, are responsible for keeping everything in place. Thus, they’re also a vital anti-aging ingredient because they helps your skin produce more collagen.

Source: Byrdie – Amy Lawrenson